Yes, I am arrogant. So what?
France has a lot to
offer.
I used to show off
pretending that I was “International” and not “only French”. I strongly believe
that French are sometimes to self-focus especially when it comes to wine. The
world has so much to offer that I suggest – most of the time – to my
compatriots, to cross the boarders and open their minds. The Chenin Blanc I tasted
in Khao Yai province in Thailand will most probably never from far be as
delicate as a Loire Valley wine, but I believe that every vineyard has some
interest, and it is worth to go and try. And encourage those endeavors!
You won’t believe how
many times I heard that “French are arrogant”, “they believe they are the best
in many things”, etc.
I don’t know what
those “things” are, but let me be French and tell you something. We DO know how
to make wine for real.
I am not saying we
are the best. I am only saying: in this country, you can be surprised every
single day by a new wine, a new terroir, and YES, I am pretty proud of that
(not that I have contributed a tiny bit to that fact, but let me take some of
the credit – thank you mummy and daddy)
So it is time for me
to go back to my roots and (re) discover some wines that deserve to make a bit
more noise.
After a few days
skiing in the beautiful Savoy region, I decided to get to know more about the
wines this not so famous wine region has to offer. It’s raining, it’s
cold. Well, let’s go taste some wine.
Located nearby the more
famous wine town of Apremont, Chignin is a dump that does not really ring a
bell with many “un-French” wine people. True that outside of Bordeaux,
Champagne, Rhône and Burgundy, there are not much places that sound familiar to
the world of wine. Shame. For the world, and for them who are struggling to
export their production.
the sexy town of Chignin |
This area of Savoy
mainly grows one indigenous white grape, that you will find in the AOC Apremont,
and Chignin : la Jacquère.
Jacquère gives a very
light and fruity white wine, to drink young. It’s ideal as an aperitif, or a
cheese fondue but no need to look for complexity; you’re not dealing with the
right grape.
But in Chignin, there’s
another white grape that will sound familiar to your ears, growing on few
estates in between Jacquère vineyards and producing an exciting white wine: Chignin-Bergeron.
Made with 100% of Roussanne, typical grape from Rhône Valley, I can tell
you that the colder climate and the slopes of Savoy are doing good to it. The
chalky soils too.
Denis and Didier
Bertholier have been making wine in Chignin for 15 years. Their medium size
domain (11 hectares) produce mainly white wine, from Jacquère and Roussanne and
a bit of red (from Mondeuse and Gamay grapes). Integrated farming is part of
their philosophy as they believe nature should express itself through the wines.
Good point guys.
My big crush on that
day is going to that wine: Chignin-Bergeron cuvée Saint-Anthelme 2011.
Saint Anthelme 2011 from D&D Berthollier |
Unlike most of the
whites from this region, this wine has aged for a couple of years in barrel.
Wood is not always an aroma that I look after, especially when it overpowers
the taste of the wine. I feel like it can take out the finesse without adding
any interesting flavours. But this is absolutely not the case here.
The aging here gives
body to the wine. Its smooth texture and long lasting make it comparable to its
more renowned neighbors from Rhone Valley.
Roussanne (or
Bergeron, as they call it there) needs some sun to ripen. When mature, it brings
notes of honeysuckle, peony but also coffee and candy. This wine also offers
great freshness and a touch of citrus fruits, added to the typical rounder
roussanne notes, making it perfectly balanced.
We were drinking
vintage 2011, and this wine was still very fresh and young. To enjoy today or
to keep for a few more years!
Didier, Denis, you helped
me remember how special our soils can be. And that, the diversity wines can
offer, is much wider than many people think.
It’s not that bad to
be French, at the end of the day.
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